Yours will shift to fit you — this is the spine we'd start from.
First espresso standing at the bar. An evening walk through the centro storico.
The big sights early, then the trattoria the locals keep, not the one on the square.
Pick up a car, wind into the hills, settle into a farmhouse with a long table.
A vineyard lunch, a hill town at dusk, nothing on the schedule but dinner.
Prefer to see the country first? Open The Slow Italy in the Atlas